Pat McGrath on Her Love for Makeup and its Ability to Transform
We call her the “Mother of Makeup” for a reason; Pat McGrath has chalked up an impressive resume within the beauty and fashion industry with over 35 years of experience. “It’s been a journey of relentless passion, creativity and fun,” says the highly sought-after professional makeup artist. “Only in fashion and beauty could a girl like me have a career so major, where I’ve been given the opportunity to work with so many extraordinary people — visionaries like photographer Steven Meisel, legendary designers like Mrs. Prada and Donatella Versace, and all the iconic celebrities with whom I’ve had the pleasure of collaborating.”
McGrath also gives us an insight into the origins of her moniker. “The ‘Mother’ nickname started as a gag amongst friends back in the ’90s when we were on set together,” she recounts. “I now consider it an honour as it speaks to the love and dedication I’ve poured into my craft.”
While she’s known for creating some of the industry’s most intricate transformative makeup looks, McGrath started with something as simple as experimenting with the capabilities of lipstick. “My earliest makeup memory is smearing a single, bold lipstick across cheeks, lips, and eyelids, and marvelling at its transformative power,” she says. “It was then that I discovered makeup’s versatility, not just as a beauty tool but as a medium for artistic expression.”
She continues: “This fascination, paired with a passion for surrounding myself with creative souls like the legendary Steven Meisel who creates iconic visuals, naturally steered me towards a career where I could collaborate, create and innovate. Makeup became my canvas, and every face a chance to challenge the conventional, tell a story and push the boundaries of beauty.” Inspiration-wise, the artist finds it everywhere. “[It] is in nature, technology, culture, cinema, art, music and the people I meet. I’m particularly drawn to the grandeur of past eras and the promise of the future.”
As for what she loves most about the craft, it goes down to its ability to transform, “to turn fantasy into reality, and the joy that brings to people.” After all, that’s what McGrath is known for, evident in the porcelain doll look she did for Maison Margiela’s Spring 2024 Couture show that sent the Internet into a frenzy earlier this year.
“The journey to the Margiela look was a deep dive into the past, drawing from the luminous allure of 1930s porcelain dolls and the enigmatic charm of Paris by moonlight,” she says of the concept behind the look. “John [Galliano]’s rich narrative guided us, and together, we decided to capture the dolls’ haunting beauty and ethereal glow.”
However, what was most talked about was the glass-skin effect that had many experimenting and recreating in their homes with their own DIY formulas. “The glass-skin effect was actually five years in the making,” says McGrath. “The most challenging part was developing a technique that wouldn’t disrupt the makeup underneath, which we finally achieved for the Margiela show by mixing various skincare products and applying them with an airbrush machine. There was a lot of trial and error; we were testing this look for over two weeks and once we got it right, we then had to teach all of the team members how to execute it. In the end, the look was a harmonious blend of historical reverence and modern seduction, each model a vision of otherworldly luminosity.”
Of course, the success of the Margiela look is a testament to McGrath’s passion for makeup and its abilities. “You couldn’t find anyone more makeup-obsessed than me, and I will never stop experimenting,” she says. “I’ve probably tried every product and trend out there, so what excites me most is the opportunity to head to the lab and develop new and innovative products and looks. One of the reasons I started Pat McGrath Labs was to create game-changing products that don’t exist anywhere else.”
Using her brand as a medium for alchemy, McGrath has innovated fresh ways to maximise makeup to its full potential. “As an alchemist, I blend unconventional materials and techniques to create the novel. It starts with a vision, often a blend of historical references and futuristic dreams, and through trial and error, I craft new textures and effects. It’s about pushing boundaries, and never settling for the status quo,” she explains.
When it comes to her most memorable creations, there are a few standouts. “Selecting favourite projects is like choosing between stars in the sky; each one sparkles on its own,” she says. “However, the launch of Gold 001 in the enchanting Jardin des Tuileries was exceptional. The kit sold out in 36 seconds and in that moment, I knew my life would never be the same. Likewise, the radiant Lust 004 lips we created for Naomi Campbell at the VMAs. And let’s not forget the transformative beauty crafted for Taylor Swift’s “Bejewelled” video, where I had the thrill of playing The Queen. These aren’t just makeup looks; they’re pivotal experiences where beauty intersects with art to leave an indelible mark.”
With her rolodex of makeup experience, it felt right to ask her for some tips and tricks to elevate our beauty routines this year. The simplest way to improve your beauty game? “Start with your base,” she says. “If you start with gorgeous skin, everything else becomes easier. And the best way to start is with my Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection The System. I developed this backstage at the fashion shows, and then perfected it to make it super simple to use in real life.”
“Prep with Divine Skin: Rose 001 The Essence, which hydrates, plumps and calms the skin. Then follow with the Sublime Perfection Primer, to smooth texture and add a soft-focus effect to your complexion. Next, perfect the skin with the Sublime Perfection Foundation, which I recommend applying with your hands so that the formula really melts into the skin, and lock it all in place with the Sublime Perfection Setting Powder, applied strategically along the centre of the face.”
After that, McGrath suggests mastering one feature on your face. “[It can be] a bold lip with MatteTrance™ Lipstick or a smokey eye conjured from your favourite Eye Quad. Confidence in application comes from practice, so take time to play and discover what enhances your unique beauty.”
“This year, I’m obsessed with the duality of minimal and maximal makeup moments — the ‘Majorness Spectrum,’ if you will,” she shares on the trends that have recently caught her eye. “It’s thrilling to see looks that whisper with delicate nude shades one moment, then shout with avant-garde vibrancy the next. These trends are best exemplified by some of the looks we created for the Spring/Summer 2024 shows.”
“On one side of the spectrum you have the divine, spa-fresh skin that we created at The Row using my Divine Skin: Rose 001 The Essence, Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection The System and Skin Fetish: Highlighter + Balm Duo, concentrating on creating healthy, glowing skin. On the other end, you have the bold, haute couture makeup at Schiaparelli. It’s been years since we really saw the return to full-on glamour makeup where eyes, cheeks and lips are dramatically adorned and I think you’re seeing a lot of people embracing that after this show, which I’m obsessed with!”
Currently, McGrath is in the midst of yet another busy month, lending her services for fashion’s ready-to-wear shows and the Oscars. “I can’t share all my secrets quite yet, but after ready-to-wear we have the Oscars, where we’ll be celebrating makeup artist Nadia Stacey’s nomination for Best Makeup and Hair Styling for her work on the film Poor Things. She is a huge fan of Pat Mcgrath Labs and only used our products on the set of the film,” she tells L’OFFICIEL SINGAPORE. Other than that, the artist has a couple of collaborations lined up and new product launches from Pat McGrath Labs. “Stay tuned for a year full of artistry, excitement and innovation,” she teases. “So many things are coming!”
